Spanish

http://www.spanishseamstress.org/docs-and-handouts/

http://www.spanishseamstress.org/other-iberian-images/basque/

Putting pics in one place.

so flat and ugly. was not the plan

This might be a winner. keep the fabric tight (eg no fluff under the bands like the green sleeves)

I think this could be too much with the brocade.

The girl at the far side of the table has great simple sleeves

original inspiration. not sure I'm keen to continue the attempts for these. 

Why? I thought I'd lost them.
I want to redo the sleeves of the gold frock for Yule. They turned out crap the first time. They collapsed. But I'm not sure what I want.
And what else will I need? Better partlet, banding on the skirt, awesome cuffs. I might have good cuffs already. Don't want sleeves - too hot.
Better hat arrangement...flat cap? perhaps. Borrow one? Nice idea.
And how long have I got? About 3 weeks.
Is it worth it? Do I care? I shall keep thinking.

Hmm.
I have very little interest or enthusiasm about sewing, the SCA, events, or the people I will run into there. Even singing isn't sparking me any more.
But I'd like to give it a few more goes before I say goodbye completely. So I think I need to start building an outfit that will keep me comfy and not make events painful.
I need a gooseboy outfit. And I'd like it for Yule. Five weeks.
What have I already got that will make this simple?
* A shirt with cuffs and collar. It's a little uncomfortable in the arm pits, but it will do for now.
* Yellow wool socks. but I'd really prefer white.
That's not much. I use to have the prefect hat, but someone nicked it at Festy.
What do I need, then:
* Big pants. Should be pretty simple. I've made 2 pairs before. Would like outa-period button fly please.
* Boots/shoes. My soft mary janes are just too early. This wants boots.
* Doublet. Removable sleeves. This may be the key to keeping my boobs in. Or perhaps I just wear a singlet. Sleeves can always be made at a later time.
* white socks.
* Look into hats.

I'd also like to explore some of the earlier boy stuff. Tights, short shorts, little U-front doublet. I've got the figure for it. And the hair. Do I have the patience to build the stripy tights?
Pros for making Gooseboy for Yule: No sleeves, can roll down socks, will be pretty quick, I have a shirt already.
Cons? T'ain't many.
Cons for making an early sexy boy for Yule: full length leggings will be warm. Doublets normally have sleeves. Tights require me to not loose my na-na.
Pros...? It would look awesome. Totally.

Guess it's time to look at a few pics, and check through the archives. Wonder if this is going to work for me?

Accountability, 8 years later

I made a dress, many many years ago. About 2003 I think. Black linen, red velveteen 'piping' and cheap brocade trim. It was losely based on many images and ideas, but not on any single one. It was the sturdiest, and easiest wearing frock I had, and I must say, I did an awesome job on it that early in my sewing days. I wore it to death, and it was nearly dead at our step up tourney in 04. I think it now belongs to Squish?
And then it was 2005, and I needed a new one, and I had this awesome pink linen that reminded me of the colours in the Ausburg seasons murals. Full circle skirt this time, and that really was the thing that made it look awesome. This time around, I had more access to round-fronted gown images. But really what I was doing was copying my old frock. And then Mel had one, and then we made one for J for Pennsic...
I left the pink one in America. I'd bought too much fabric to bring it back home with me. Duchess Megan got it, and I hope she wore it lots.
I made a blue version long before I gave that up though. 2006 I think. Slashy sleeves, just for fun. More linen, more short sleeves. C got many wears out of this when I was done. It now has a third owner, I think?
I threw some old pics up on flickr ages ago. A nice lady in Canadia has spotted the similarities in all our frocks, and decided to make one even though she was having trouble sourcing the One True Image.
I've since dropped her some of the images I used to build the original. But it's really got me itching - that wasn't all the pics. LoverBoy is at work, so I've stolen the computer where all my images are stored. Flickr now has a folder of all these ideas. Although there are still a few missing. Such as the Ausburg murals, and Alyxx's website. Or this awesome chicky. Or good old Dorethea. Or this lovely lady in red and gold.

At any rate, I'm now turning over projects in my mind. This whole thing may have got me ready to do some sewing again.

When I first started my original blog, I built this post. I'm putting here for more public access.

And maybe, just maybe, I'll start sewing again now that we've moved, and I'll post stuff about it here.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Someone just sent me an email about Swabian gowns - and I thought I'd use my spanky new recording system to put up some images, and have a chat about the dresses.

The Goddess Myra first coined the phrase "Swabian", based on one of the images she found. It's stuck since then, although I'm not entirely sure that it would be an appropriate term for all of the beaded sleeve frocks. Then again, she reads a lot more than I do!

Most of the images I found of beaded sleeve gowns were from about 1490-1500. Roughly.


This was the first image I found, and very soon after (about 100 pages in the same book, I think) I found two more. She is "portrait of a lady of the order of the swan, 1500" (although I have also seen 1460s attatched to this image).
I have a theory that this is Beatrix Frangapan. I might go into that later.











This is Ursula Greckin, circa 1500. This is a very different dress shape - Myra's inspiration, I believe? She does a beautiful job: http://www.myra.hem.nu/costume/ (hope she doesn't mind!)








This is Barbara Wespach, half of a diptich showing her and her husband. 1500. I love her hat:

So much so that I made a copy of the bead work. I wish I'd had time to make the black stripes too:

Well, that was a beautiful example of formatting! I wonder what it will look like...

Finally, a tiny black and white image in the back of a German Portraits book gave me a design I liked. A few years later, I found the image in colour, and discovered that the dress was RED, not black!! Boy was I excited!

She's a bit hard to see here. The kneeling figures, bottom right -
In gold: Markgrafin Sophia, Princess of Poland
In red, and parti-coloured black/green: Margarete, Sophia, Anna and Elisabeth, her daughters.
Sophia was the Markgrafin of Brandenberg.

The image is from the REVERSE of the altarpiece in the Swan Chapel of St. Gumbertus in Ansbach - the larger image is here:
http://www.schwanenorden.de/Bilder9.htm





So this is my first version - testing the pattern, and my beading skills. There is a piece that covers the bust - like a brestfluck - and the red 'banner' is felt. It was quite an experience. I've never been happy with the amount of beading though. I always felt that there should be more.

And here's a very bad photo of me, in MarkII.

And here's the sleeve, beaded but still on the frame. If I'd had the time, I would have kept on going. Gold lattice work on the 'land', smaller tendrils on the roots, more spangles. Maybe even more tree. It took 3 weeks to do - that includes about 4 days off school. The banner says "Rowani", which is the name of the SCA barony I live in, albeit misspelt.

There are a few other examples of beading on single sleeves in German artwork that I have found since then.
The Babenberger family tree (as found on Mrya's web site - see, told you she was a goddess!) shows a few women in dresses with beaded sleeves.

For example:

Thoman Burgkmair

1515? I think?

The 6 month update

So, in June, I started a new festy frock. And then I stopped.
I picked it up the other day and had another go - the bodice is only a few minutes off rings time.
Reading over that original post, not much has/had changed. I forgot the straight grain in the shoulders, and had to put it in by hand...when was the last time I did that with a machine? 15 years ago, I reckon. I'm contemplating boning in the opening, and have put straight tape there too to do it. And I'm wavering towards the orange trim.
The trim in mind is a wholesale roll of cotton bias in a citris orange. I'm a little worried that it will just look too cheap, though. Will pin and look.

Also on the go:
A highnecked shirt for me. Still to do - neck band/gathering, cuffs, hem. Ruff? I really do think it should have one.
Fz socks. Perpetually.

Dreaming of:
Another small coat with mega shoulders.
A boy coat with swinging skirts.
A huge coat for me.
At least one more shirt.

Plan for today: get rings on, try on, cut skirt pieces, finish seams on skirt pieces, start pleating.

Movement at the station...

I started a new frock yesterday.
I want more comfy stuff for Festy, and the yellow frock is comfy, so I'm building another. Only this will be a little less 'sheepgirl' and a little more 'wealthy farmer's wife'.
It will have a gapped opening where the lacing shows. It's a part of a theoory I have at the moment about me, my boobs, fitting and comfort. I'm not building sleeves for it either, though if I ever get the urge I could always whip some on.
I was considering a really dark brown wool with black trim, but then I found some navy tabby stuff that had never left its Fine Wools bag. It burns like cotton, smells like wool when wet, and has stretch one way. It's almost black in sunlight. It drapes beautifully. Not quite the warm colour I'd had in my head, but that's ok - the brown will make a delicious coat one day.
I'm running the stretch up and down on the bodice, because it might help me when I'm turning the neckline over. And I'll run the stretch crossways on the skirt, so it doesn't fall oddly. No one need ever know.
It's washed (glad I did - it's roughed up a little, and looks great) and the bodice is cut, side seams together. Boning chanels in, and need to remember to stiffen the front edge as I finish it, and straight grain the shoulders. I always forget that.
I'm going to make adjustments to the shoulders/waist etc. as I go, because I can. And I'll decide later about the kind of trim, because it's not intergral to the building stages. I'm leaning towards simple black velveteen, a few mil off the bodice edge. But it could also look awesome with hot orange.

I have not sewed since Festy. Not surprising really. Might try to get back in this week.

I forgot to mention with the cleaning up:
There's enough light-weight black wool to build a black-on-black late german.
There's enough heavy black wool to make a coat of dooom.
There's at least 2 pieces of two different browns, about 8mts each. One could be a dress, one should be a coat for F. Though I think red would suit the pallette we're building for him.

I tidied the sewing room.
It was good for me - I know have been reminded of what I've got, and little plans are forming in my mind.
I didn't throw much out, but I already knew I'm crap at that.
Hooray for tidier sewing spaces.

Haz Hat

Hat crown, sewn up.

Crown with flat top attached, lining in place.

Finished product. The feather is a stunt one - I need something a little shorter and curlier. Also considering a larger gold thing.

Things to remember:
Applying the velveteen to the brim in two stages was a much better idea.
A narrow piece of felt was put in the top of the crown, around the top, to smooth out the lumps made by the flat top coming over the sides.
The pleats of the crown covering are only held in at points. The majority of the work is done by the hatband, including covering up stuff.

I'm not super-happy with it. It's come out a little rough. And I have no idea how to stick it to my head. Considering a tie, that runs around the back of my head, along the line of the coif. Or hair braids, and a staple gun.

Swearing

Gosh darn it!
The plan to build two velveteen doughnuts, and sew them together, and put the buckram brim inside...looked like cak. The machined seam didn't sit right, I hadn't cut out enough of the curve, and the buckram was twisting funny...and even though I overlooked it all (because perfection is not my middle name) I got caught up with the size of the crown. It was a little too big for the brim.
Swearing, ripping, throwing...god i'm over being sick.
So last night I made two more velveteen doughnuts, ironed one onto the buckram rim (it's a little sticky, so this is cunning) and trimmed out the curve properly. Ironed the curve up and over, and stitched it down. Then cut the curve of the other layer, pinned it to the brim, and I'm most way around the edge with the tiny prick stitches.
Shesh.
I considered a line of pinked silk, sandwiched between the layers at the edge of the brim...but it would have been just too much tizz. I shall bling it up with the band.

Hat is coming together rather quickly. Crown is complete, brim still needs the wire sewn on to about 3 inches. And a hole cut in the middle.
I've lined it in pale pink linen, because I had it. Though mickey mouse satin would have been awesome.
I'm at teh stage where I can test the pokey-through-ness of the buckram under the velveteen. I may yet need a layer of felt. It's not too weighty yet, so it might be a good option to add a little more weight.
Photos of steps later.

Thoughts on hat building

Hat pattern worked the third time. Wish I was doing this not sick, it would be far less annoying.
Will make the block flat topped, with a circle of fashion fabric pleated into the band. This circle will smooth the flat top slightly. Not much. But easier to brain than the curve.
Two layers of this cheap buckram I've got, prolly thrown through the machine for a little extra stiffness. Lining for crown, and crown top, but velveteen on base of brim.
Thoughts on steps...
Pattern.
Cut buckram, sew together as flat things for extra strength. Sew into tube.
Cut lining, a little too long at base of crown and top. Sew into tube, place into buckram tube, cut into curve at top and secure over the top of the crown.
Pattern flat top, based on tube I've just made. Two layers of buckram, lining. Cut into the curve, fold edges down over outside of crown, hand stitch. Yes, ugly, but easy to get to, and will be covered later.
Pattern brim. Shouldn't be much more than an inch. Two layers of buckram, reinforced with machine stitching. Add wire to edge by hand. Cut velveteen, machine sew together on outer edge. Encase buckram, trim/cut curve of inner brim. fold up into crown, hand stitch brim and crown together UNDER the lining. Fold lining in and tack down. Anything unsightly can be kept under some grossgrain if necc.
Cut velveteen circle to size, with SA. Press up SA to make life easier later. Place over hat, pleat neatly into waist of hat. Tack pleats down.
Build the cutest of hat bands from beads and stuff. Stitch on so you don't lose it.
Cover it in feathers.

Only issue I can see? Buckram may still be too hard and obvious under the velveteen. Might need a layer of felt too. But I don't want to make the whole thing too heavy, so we shall see.
Wonder if I can get that rounded look with a bit of padding on the flat top? Oh my, did the caffeine just kick in? God I'm awesome. Will test this idea when I'm closer to that point.

Have I got something stupid to line it in?

May Crown - thinking aloud

OPTIONS
1. Blue Brocade.
Pros: Have only worn it once, so it needs another outing. Could be cool, esp. if I borrow the rope skirt again. It's very cute, and easy to wear. I don't mind getting it dirty.
Cons: It needs some work - a band of velveteen at the hem, extra hook and eye on skirt opening, and I think I wanted to check out my sleeve holes. Bloody sleeve holes. The accessories also need making or finishing - the partlet needs a hem, I need a hat, the coif needs mending, and a belt would be ace. I'm also considering building a farthingale for it, because it did look rather good with the rope skirt.
Answer? I should try it on to solve underskirt ideas and sleeve issues.

2. Gold silk brocade.
Pros: I've only worn it once, and in Melbourne, so lots of people haven't seen it. If I wear it without the lower sleeves, it would be cooler than with them. It's gorgeous.
Cons: Lots. I've just pulled the sleeves off, to make them awesome*. I'm not prepared to get it dirty, so no wild nights for me. I think It needs to be worn over the red kirtle, and that adds to warmth, though I could test it out without. It has a shirt, and I could wear either the falling ruff partlet or the new standing one, though both need finishing. The coif needs mending, it needs a hat, and a belt. I might be overdressed.
Answer? Bloody hell, I don't know.

I guess once all these things are added together, the answer is:
I need a hat. Perf. a top hat, but a flat cap would do right now.
I need a belt. I really need some large pearls - I have the gold bits.
I need to finish both partlets.
I need to mend my coif.

The blue is wearable. The gold needs work. Finish the accessories, then finish the gold.

Gah, sensible!





*Gold sleeve plan: The sleves were originally lined in light but felty wool, and padded out with a bunch of tulle. They looked good until I wore it, and then they just looked and felt bulky and dumb. My plans is to:

• Fully line the silk sleeve in heavy duty tulle, as with the dressing gown. Perhaps an extra piece in the shoulder pleats, ending at the sleeve 'point' above the shoulder.
• Complete the sleeve with the original lining, to be whipped into the armhole.
  
• Trim back the inside of the bodice armhole, and finish the edge by rolling the brocade around from the front. This may involve some thin cotton tape to seal the raw edge, if I can only fold it once around the hole.
  
• Remove and resew the tags at the cuff, using gold thread this time, not stupid black.
  

I shouldn't have to cut anything new, or repattern. I think. I hope. It's ok if the sleeve becomes a little shorter in this process - it was a little long anyway.

Thoughts on Festy

Best frock for wearing all day? My yellow peasant.
Why? I think because it has no sleeves, and a gap in the front. It can be as tight and loose as you want, and I think it even fits around my bust better. Also, it's very easy to wear with a neat jacket, quick to get on (and off! oo-er!), doesn't need ironing, is cool enough despite the weight of the wool, and the hem doesn't get wet.
Any issues? Yes, because it's not very flash, and I'd like something for Festy that is nice. And its hem ends above my ankle, making it a great Festy frock, but I can't wear an underskirt for extra warmth. And because it doesn't need to be kirtled, I don't end up with an apron pocket, and they are mega handy. The skirt still needs a hook and eye.

Worst frock for wearing all day? The green.
Why? The sleeves are not as comfy as I'd like. And I think the bodice gave a little in wearing - by the end of the day it was feeling a little big. And I can't wear a jacket over it, because of the awesome sleeves. So it's no good for night wear at Festy.
So, good bits? The colour still blows my mind, I love the sleeves, the skirt drape is delicious. It's going to be a fine feast frock. I'm considering trying Mel's lacing method, to make the front smoother.

So how was the salmon frock? Surprisingly comfy. I hate wearing a frock for the first time at an event - anything can go wrong. But this was ok. Not as comfy as the yellow, but still good. I could wear a jacket at night, kirtle skirts, it looked good...a success, in all. I wish I'd got some photos.

I think what I have discovered is that I (and many others) are just not good at wearing frocks for 14hr periods. We're unused to it, and it hurts. The dragging down on my shoulders, and standing differently, really takes its toll. I'm keen to see if moving my shoulder seams makes some difference, and maybe even bodices that lace differently, but I think it's just a difference thing.

So what are the plans for Festy '11?
No matter what happens with the site, it's later in the year, and therefore colder. I will be needing that coat, and so will F. So they will be re-instated. And I think the evidence points to another peasanty frock. I wonder if I have some scrappy wool for that. I'd love a new little jacket in brocade, too. And I've yet to finish my smock and F's socks. But I'm dreaming of another courty frock in black and black, and I really want to apply some new knowledge to the gold silk sleeves.

Salmon frock is wearable, and pretty much done. There are two lines of cord at hem, and I'd like 3, but 2 is servicable and better than none.
Boy socks cut out, pinned in place, ready for the machine. I will finish them on site.
One partlet is mended, the other just needs hooks and eyes attached.
Must remember to pack old partlets, with pin-on ruff. Then I will have more than 2.
Still need to move the eyes on my jacket, press linens before packing,

I SHALL go to the ball!

Red doublet is done.
Ties on sleeves, rings on doublet for putting the sleeves on. Two holes at base of body for lacing closed. He can have more if he wants them.
No pants attachments though. I guess we'll just see how we go!

Cunning!
My teal underskirt has always been an bit too long, and I've been loathe to cut the black bands off the bottom and start again because it's too much work for right now.
So I 'pintucked' 3 bands at knee height. You'll never see them, and I've taken about 5 cm out of the length. It also adds a bit of firmness at that point, a little like a rope skirt, but not quite.
And when I've finally ruined the hem beyond repair, I can unpick the pin tucks, and chop the bottom off!
Also:
Cut the velveteen bands for Salmon sleeves
Halved the waistband of the terracotta underskirt, and bound it with cotton tape and the machine
Machined the final shirt, and I can finish this on site. Later. So don't care right now.
Packed the pile of wine bar linen, including a spare sheet for dividing the tent.
Tested the concept - Salmon frock pic has little lines of white on the hem, 3. I've got 3 lines of black cording pinned on, and I like it but need a second pair of eyes. I should be able to VERY CAREFULLY! machine this on. Done in a jiffy. And again with the adding of stiffness.

Christ, I'm fanging for a beer.

Other salmon sleeve.