I forgot to mention with the cleaning up:
There's enough light-weight black wool to build a black-on-black late german.
There's enough heavy black wool to make a coat of dooom.
There's at least 2 pieces of two different browns, about 8mts each. One could be a dress, one should be a coat for F. Though I think red would suit the pallette we're building for him.

I tidied the sewing room.
It was good for me - I know have been reminded of what I've got, and little plans are forming in my mind.
I didn't throw much out, but I already knew I'm crap at that.
Hooray for tidier sewing spaces.

Haz Hat

Hat crown, sewn up.

Crown with flat top attached, lining in place.

Finished product. The feather is a stunt one - I need something a little shorter and curlier. Also considering a larger gold thing.

Things to remember:
Applying the velveteen to the brim in two stages was a much better idea.
A narrow piece of felt was put in the top of the crown, around the top, to smooth out the lumps made by the flat top coming over the sides.
The pleats of the crown covering are only held in at points. The majority of the work is done by the hatband, including covering up stuff.

I'm not super-happy with it. It's come out a little rough. And I have no idea how to stick it to my head. Considering a tie, that runs around the back of my head, along the line of the coif. Or hair braids, and a staple gun.

Swearing

Gosh darn it!
The plan to build two velveteen doughnuts, and sew them together, and put the buckram brim inside...looked like cak. The machined seam didn't sit right, I hadn't cut out enough of the curve, and the buckram was twisting funny...and even though I overlooked it all (because perfection is not my middle name) I got caught up with the size of the crown. It was a little too big for the brim.
Swearing, ripping, throwing...god i'm over being sick.
So last night I made two more velveteen doughnuts, ironed one onto the buckram rim (it's a little sticky, so this is cunning) and trimmed out the curve properly. Ironed the curve up and over, and stitched it down. Then cut the curve of the other layer, pinned it to the brim, and I'm most way around the edge with the tiny prick stitches.
Shesh.
I considered a line of pinked silk, sandwiched between the layers at the edge of the brim...but it would have been just too much tizz. I shall bling it up with the band.

Hat is coming together rather quickly. Crown is complete, brim still needs the wire sewn on to about 3 inches. And a hole cut in the middle.
I've lined it in pale pink linen, because I had it. Though mickey mouse satin would have been awesome.
I'm at teh stage where I can test the pokey-through-ness of the buckram under the velveteen. I may yet need a layer of felt. It's not too weighty yet, so it might be a good option to add a little more weight.
Photos of steps later.

Thoughts on hat building

Hat pattern worked the third time. Wish I was doing this not sick, it would be far less annoying.
Will make the block flat topped, with a circle of fashion fabric pleated into the band. This circle will smooth the flat top slightly. Not much. But easier to brain than the curve.
Two layers of this cheap buckram I've got, prolly thrown through the machine for a little extra stiffness. Lining for crown, and crown top, but velveteen on base of brim.
Thoughts on steps...
Pattern.
Cut buckram, sew together as flat things for extra strength. Sew into tube.
Cut lining, a little too long at base of crown and top. Sew into tube, place into buckram tube, cut into curve at top and secure over the top of the crown.
Pattern flat top, based on tube I've just made. Two layers of buckram, lining. Cut into the curve, fold edges down over outside of crown, hand stitch. Yes, ugly, but easy to get to, and will be covered later.
Pattern brim. Shouldn't be much more than an inch. Two layers of buckram, reinforced with machine stitching. Add wire to edge by hand. Cut velveteen, machine sew together on outer edge. Encase buckram, trim/cut curve of inner brim. fold up into crown, hand stitch brim and crown together UNDER the lining. Fold lining in and tack down. Anything unsightly can be kept under some grossgrain if necc.
Cut velveteen circle to size, with SA. Press up SA to make life easier later. Place over hat, pleat neatly into waist of hat. Tack pleats down.
Build the cutest of hat bands from beads and stuff. Stitch on so you don't lose it.
Cover it in feathers.

Only issue I can see? Buckram may still be too hard and obvious under the velveteen. Might need a layer of felt too. But I don't want to make the whole thing too heavy, so we shall see.
Wonder if I can get that rounded look with a bit of padding on the flat top? Oh my, did the caffeine just kick in? God I'm awesome. Will test this idea when I'm closer to that point.

Have I got something stupid to line it in?

May Crown - thinking aloud

OPTIONS
1. Blue Brocade.
Pros: Have only worn it once, so it needs another outing. Could be cool, esp. if I borrow the rope skirt again. It's very cute, and easy to wear. I don't mind getting it dirty.
Cons: It needs some work - a band of velveteen at the hem, extra hook and eye on skirt opening, and I think I wanted to check out my sleeve holes. Bloody sleeve holes. The accessories also need making or finishing - the partlet needs a hem, I need a hat, the coif needs mending, and a belt would be ace. I'm also considering building a farthingale for it, because it did look rather good with the rope skirt.
Answer? I should try it on to solve underskirt ideas and sleeve issues.

2. Gold silk brocade.
Pros: I've only worn it once, and in Melbourne, so lots of people haven't seen it. If I wear it without the lower sleeves, it would be cooler than with them. It's gorgeous.
Cons: Lots. I've just pulled the sleeves off, to make them awesome*. I'm not prepared to get it dirty, so no wild nights for me. I think It needs to be worn over the red kirtle, and that adds to warmth, though I could test it out without. It has a shirt, and I could wear either the falling ruff partlet or the new standing one, though both need finishing. The coif needs mending, it needs a hat, and a belt. I might be overdressed.
Answer? Bloody hell, I don't know.

I guess once all these things are added together, the answer is:
I need a hat. Perf. a top hat, but a flat cap would do right now.
I need a belt. I really need some large pearls - I have the gold bits.
I need to finish both partlets.
I need to mend my coif.

The blue is wearable. The gold needs work. Finish the accessories, then finish the gold.

Gah, sensible!





*Gold sleeve plan: The sleves were originally lined in light but felty wool, and padded out with a bunch of tulle. They looked good until I wore it, and then they just looked and felt bulky and dumb. My plans is to:

• Fully line the silk sleeve in heavy duty tulle, as with the dressing gown. Perhaps an extra piece in the shoulder pleats, ending at the sleeve 'point' above the shoulder.
• Complete the sleeve with the original lining, to be whipped into the armhole.
  
• Trim back the inside of the bodice armhole, and finish the edge by rolling the brocade around from the front. This may involve some thin cotton tape to seal the raw edge, if I can only fold it once around the hole.
  
• Remove and resew the tags at the cuff, using gold thread this time, not stupid black.
  

I shouldn't have to cut anything new, or repattern. I think. I hope. It's ok if the sleeve becomes a little shorter in this process - it was a little long anyway.

Thoughts on Festy

Best frock for wearing all day? My yellow peasant.
Why? I think because it has no sleeves, and a gap in the front. It can be as tight and loose as you want, and I think it even fits around my bust better. Also, it's very easy to wear with a neat jacket, quick to get on (and off! oo-er!), doesn't need ironing, is cool enough despite the weight of the wool, and the hem doesn't get wet.
Any issues? Yes, because it's not very flash, and I'd like something for Festy that is nice. And its hem ends above my ankle, making it a great Festy frock, but I can't wear an underskirt for extra warmth. And because it doesn't need to be kirtled, I don't end up with an apron pocket, and they are mega handy. The skirt still needs a hook and eye.

Worst frock for wearing all day? The green.
Why? The sleeves are not as comfy as I'd like. And I think the bodice gave a little in wearing - by the end of the day it was feeling a little big. And I can't wear a jacket over it, because of the awesome sleeves. So it's no good for night wear at Festy.
So, good bits? The colour still blows my mind, I love the sleeves, the skirt drape is delicious. It's going to be a fine feast frock. I'm considering trying Mel's lacing method, to make the front smoother.

So how was the salmon frock? Surprisingly comfy. I hate wearing a frock for the first time at an event - anything can go wrong. But this was ok. Not as comfy as the yellow, but still good. I could wear a jacket at night, kirtle skirts, it looked good...a success, in all. I wish I'd got some photos.

I think what I have discovered is that I (and many others) are just not good at wearing frocks for 14hr periods. We're unused to it, and it hurts. The dragging down on my shoulders, and standing differently, really takes its toll. I'm keen to see if moving my shoulder seams makes some difference, and maybe even bodices that lace differently, but I think it's just a difference thing.

So what are the plans for Festy '11?
No matter what happens with the site, it's later in the year, and therefore colder. I will be needing that coat, and so will F. So they will be re-instated. And I think the evidence points to another peasanty frock. I wonder if I have some scrappy wool for that. I'd love a new little jacket in brocade, too. And I've yet to finish my smock and F's socks. But I'm dreaming of another courty frock in black and black, and I really want to apply some new knowledge to the gold silk sleeves.