Frock plans - thinking out loud

Salmon wool. Lots of it.
Want simple for Festy, but along the lines of the green - middle-ish class, dressy but serviceable.
Do I want big puff-balls for sleeves? Maybe.
Or do I want to make a sexy coat to go with this, and play with a theory...
The girls recorded in this manuscript, I reckon, are in many cases wearing a 'kirtle' (for want of a better word) like the lower classes are showing. Probably with no sleeves, possibly with a small sleeve.Then, they get to wear a nice high-necked jacket, with the big puff-ball sleeves. So many of the outfits have 'tops' that don't match bottoms. And aprons that match the tops.
So, the good news about this theory is that I can lace up the front with impunity, have a simple 'kirtle' frock, and a really sexy jacket. The sad news is that it's often not cold enough at Festy for a coat. I'm going to scratch the big coat of doom off my Festy list, in fact. Now, I do already have 3 little jackets - two I would happily wear with this middle class stuff. So do I need more? I think I do. I think I need a brocade one.
Ok. Simple salmon 'kirtle'. Front lacing. Short sleeves, very short in fact - the whole thing along these design lines but with front lacing. So now do I get to plan a jacket? I might do a little more research, but it will probably be high-necked, big shouldered, stop a the waist line, hooks and eyes, blue brocade.

Also have been considering Fz's doublet. Not sure that I like it. Might make him a second one, with a higher neckline, pickadills at the shoulders (the little folded under ones, like loops) and baggy sleeves for tying in. Like this guy. He looks so comfy. IN brown wool, but lined with something bright...wonder how much green I have left?