After Festy '09, I decided that my boy needed to look more dapper. And he'd look great in some late period German stuff. Or maybe I'm just blind to any other culture.
I wanted him to look like this:
In varying degrees, of course. A bit from here, a bit from there. I'm in love with the fisherman's jacket, with all those pleats. It might be my first foray into leather sewing.
I'm also in love with the pants the boys wear in How Green is my Cactus.Even though I know they're outta period. A button fly! Too cute.
St Janet has examples of much higher-class duds, with pinking and other exciting decoration, often shorter and poofier, and sometimes with pockets! I'm not keen to pad them - He gets hot enough as it is, withough wearing pink bats on his legs - and I'm not trying to make anything high class. It's fisherman's pants for him! I'm also planning to use quite rough, heavy wool, which should have enough oomph in it to get the look right.
Climate + materials x period look = a useful costume.
My first attempt was a rushjob. They're cute pants, in grey wool. They are box pleated into the waistband and cuffs. They fit, and work, but they just aren't very big. I've built them a codpiece...need to figure out the best way to put that on...He can wear them, if he wants, but he's not allowed to say who made them.
Mark II is much better. I cut them out yesterday, and I really wish there was a size indicator in this pic. It would be much funnier then:
As a hint, the waist line at the top of the pattern is 92cm. Times that by 4. And the pattern is skewiff because I was standing at one end...
The wool is quite heavy, part of the Great Fantasy Fabric Haul, and almost polar fleece in feel. It has a fair bit of stiffness, and when pleated should stand out nicely.
I've decided to cartridge pleat the waist and cuffs in. Why? beacuse St Janet's pics show even, rounded pleats, and I know it will give me the same effect. I'm pleating straight to the waistband. The waistband is already finished, lined in linen (I had some spare) and prickstitched at the top.The pleating pinned in. I really like the colour of this wool, and it goes with just about anything. Which is good - I have no idea what to make the rest of his outfit from.The pleats from the outside. I'm not quite half-way round yet, so there's still a gathering stitch in there. And you can see the prick stitching - I really do like the look of a bit of prick stitching. And it's not just because of the name.
I had decided to give them a button fly - because buttons are easy to make, as are holes; they're easy enough to get in and out of; no codpiece to brain, or wear, or avoid in the dark, or make lewd jokes about...but I might be changing my mind. As I start the pleating, I left 3cm either side of the fly, to prevent pleats from encroaching on the buttons.
But.
Let's say I hook and eye the fly closed. If the pleats abutt the fly, then they help to cover the gap. And if there's a flap, as per garment 12 in POF, then all accidents are accounted for (then again, garment 12's eyelet holes do suggest a missing codpiece...yup, "The codpiece has been discarded and the front opening fastns with points through worked eyelet holes, backed with a large velvet flap. The opening is almost completley hidden by folds of material." I suppose the question is: who discarded the codpiece?
Choices, choices...Ok. Flat hooks. No codpiece. Flap. Means either jigging the flat pieces I've left behind, or unpicking the pleats I've already done...there's a lot of double work happening on these pants. I really do need to learn to be a bit slower with my decision making.
Thursday, July 23, 2009
Pants Saga: The beginning
Key words
Boy pants,
Fish pants
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