Totally Festy Clothing

2011-10-30T08:49:00.002+11:00

Hmm.
I have very little interest or enthusiasm about sewing, the SCA, events, or the people I will run into there. Even singing isn't sparking me any more.
But I'd like to give it a few more goes before I say goodbye completely. So I think I need to start building an outfit that will keep me comfy and not make events painful.
I need a gooseboy outfit. And I'd like it for Yule. Five weeks.
What have I already got that will make this simple?
* A shirt with cuffs and collar. It's a little uncomfortable in the arm pits, but it will do for now.
* Yellow wool socks. but I'd really prefer white.
That's not much. I use to have the prefect hat, but someone nicked it at Festy.
What do I need, then:
* Big pants. Should be pretty simple. I've made 2 pairs before. Would like outa-period button fly please.
* Boots/shoes. My soft mary janes are just too early. This wants boots.
* Doublet. Removable sleeves. This may be the key to keeping my boobs in. Or perhaps I just wear a singlet. Sleeves can always be made at a later time.
* white socks.
* Look into hats.

I'd also like to explore some of the earlier boy stuff. Tights, short shorts, little U-front doublet. I've got the figure for it. And the hair. Do I have the patience to build the stripy tights?
Pros for making Gooseboy for Yule: No sleeves, can roll down socks, will be pretty quick, I have a shirt already.
Cons? T'ain't many.
Cons for making an early sexy boy for Yule: full length leggings will be warm. Doublets normally have sleeves. Tights require me to not loose my na-na.
Pros...? It would look awesome. Totally.

Guess it's time to look at a few pics, and check through the archives. Wonder if this is going to work for me?

Accountability, 8 years later

2011-07-05T07:43:00.002+10:00

I made a dress, many many years ago. About 2003 I think. Black linen, red velveteen 'piping' and cheap brocade trim. It was losely based on many images and ideas, but not on any single one. It was the sturdiest, and easiest wearing frock I had, and I must say, I did an awesome job on it that early in my sewing days. I wore it to death, and it was nearly dead at our step up tourney in 04. I think it now belongs to Squish?
And then it was 2005, and I needed a new one, and I had this awesome pink linen that reminded me of the colours in the Ausburg seasons murals. Full circle skirt this time, and that really was the thing that made it look awesome. This time around, I had more access to round-fronted gown images. But really what I was doing was copying my old frock. And then Mel had one, and then we made one for J for Pennsic...
I left the pink one in America. I'd bought too much fabric to bring it back home with me. Duchess Megan got it, and I hope she wore it lots.
I made a blue version long before I gave that up though. 2006 I think. Slashy sleeves, just for fun. More linen, more short sleeves. C got many wears out of this when I was done. It now has a third owner, I think?
I threw some old pics up on flickr ages ago. A nice lady in Canadia has spotted the similarities in all our frocks, and decided to make one even though she was having trouble sourcing the One True Image.
I've since dropped her some of the images I used to build the original. But it's really got me itching - that wasn't all the pics. LoverBoy is at work, so I've stolen the computer where all my images are stored. Flickr now has a folder of all these ideas. Although there are still a few missing. Such as the Ausburg murals, and Alyxx's website. Or this awesome chicky. Or good old Dorethea. Or this lovely lady in red and gold.

At any rate, I'm now turning over projects in my mind. This whole thing may have got me ready to do some sewing again.

2011-06-30T18:56:00.002+10:00

When I first started my original blog, I built this post. I'm putting here for more public access.

And maybe, just maybe, I'll start sewing again now that we've moved, and I'll post stuff about it here.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Someone just sent me an email about Swabian gowns - and I thought I'd use my spanky new recording system to put up some images, and have a chat about the dresses.

The Goddess Myra first coined the phrase "Swabian", based on one of the images she found. It's stuck since then, although I'm not entirely sure that it would be an appropriate term for all of the beaded sleeve frocks. Then again, she reads a lot more than I do!

Most of the images I found of beaded sleeve gowns were from about 1490-1500. Roughly.

This was the first image I found, and very soon after (about 100 pages in the same book, I think) I found two more. She is "portrait of a lady of the order of the swan, 1500" (although I have also seen 1460s attatched to this image).
I have a theory that this is Beatrix Frangapan. I might go into that later.

This is Ursula Greckin, circa 1500. This is a very different dress shape - Myra's inspiration, I believe? She does a beautiful job: http://www.myra.hem.nu/costume/ (hope she doesn't mind!)

This is Barbara Wespach, half of a diptich showing her and her husband. 1500. I love her hat:

So much so that I made a copy of the bead work. I wish I'd had time to make the black stripes too:

Well, that was a beautiful example of formatting! I wonder what it will look like...

Finally, a tiny black and white image in the back of a German Portraits book gave me a design I liked. A few years later, I found the image in colour, and discovered that the dress was RED, not black!! Boy was I excited!

She's a bit hard to see here. The kneeling figures, bottom right -
In gold: Markgrafin Sophia, Princess of Poland
In red, and parti-coloured black/green: Margarete, Sophia, Anna and Elisabeth, her daughters.
Sophia was the Markgrafin of Brandenberg.

The image is from the REVERSE of the altarpiece in the Swan Chapel of St. Gumbertus in Ansbach - the larger image is here:
http://www.schwanenorden.de/Bilder9.htm

So this is my first version - testing the pattern, and my beading skills. There is a piece that covers the bust - like a brestfluck - and the red 'banner' is felt. It was quite an experience. I've never been happy with the amount of beading though. I always felt that there should be more.

And here's a very bad photo of me, in MarkII.

And here's the sleeve, beaded but still on the frame. If I'd had the time, I would have kept on going. Gold lattice work on the 'land', smaller tendrils on the roots, more spangles. Maybe even more tree. It took 3 weeks to do - that includes about 4 days off school. The banner says "Rowani", which is the name of the SCA barony I live in, albeit misspelt.

There are a few other examples of beading on single sleeves in German artwork that I have found since then.
The Babenberger family tree (as found on Mrya's web site - see, told you she was a goddess!) shows a few women in dresses with beaded sleeves.

For example:

Thoman Burgkmair

1515? I think?

The 6 month update

2011-01-05T07:37:00.003+11:00

So, in June, I started a new festy frock. And then I stopped.
I picked it up the other day and had another go - the bodice is only a few minutes off rings time.
Reading over that original post, not much has/had changed. I forgot the straight grain in the shoulders, and had to put it in by hand...when was the last time I did that with a machine? 15 years ago, I reckon. I'm contemplating boning in the opening, and have put straight tape there too to do it. And I'm wavering towards the orange trim.
The trim in mind is a wholesale roll of cotton bias in a citris orange. I'm a little worried that it will just look too cheap, though. Will pin and look.

Also on the go:
A highnecked shirt for me. Still to do - neck band/gathering, cuffs, hem. Ruff? I really do think it should have one.
Fz socks. Perpetually.

Dreaming of:
Another small coat with mega shoulders.
A boy coat with swinging skirts.
A huge coat for me.
At least one more shirt.

Plan for today: get rings on, try on, cut skirt pieces, finish seams on skirt pieces, start pleating.

Movement at the station...

2010-06-07T06:12:00.002+10:00

I started a new frock yesterday.
I want more comfy stuff for Festy, and the yellow frock is comfy, so I'm building another. Only this will be a little less 'sheepgirl' and a little more 'wealthy farmer's wife'.
It will have a gapped opening where the lacing shows. It's a part of a theoory I have at the moment about me, my boobs, fitting and comfort. I'm not building sleeves for it either, though if I ever get the urge I could always whip some on.
I was considering a really dark brown wool with black trim, but then I found some navy tabby stuff that had never left its Fine Wools bag. It burns like cotton, smells like wool when wet, and has stretch one way. It's almost black in sunlight. It drapes beautifully. Not quite the warm colour I'd had in my head, but that's ok - the brown will make a delicious coat one day.
I'm running the stretch up and down on the bodice, because it might help me when I'm turning the neckline over. And I'll run the stretch crossways on the skirt, so it doesn't fall oddly. No one need ever know.
It's washed (glad I did - it's roughed up a little, and looks great) and the bodice is cut, side seams together. Boning chanels in, and need to remember to stiffen the front edge as I finish it, and straight grain the shoulders. I always forget that.
I'm going to make adjustments to the shoulders/waist etc. as I go, because I can. And I'll decide later about the kind of trim, because it's not intergral to the building stages. I'm leaning towards simple black velveteen, a few mil off the bodice edge. But it could also look awesome with hot orange.

2010-05-16T08:52:00.001+10:00

I have not sewed since Festy. Not surprising really. Might try to get back in this week.

2010-04-30T06:26:00.003+10:00

I forgot to mention with the cleaning up:
There's enough light-weight black wool to build a black-on-black late german.
There's enough heavy black wool to make a coat of dooom.
There's at least 2 pieces of two different browns, about 8mts each. One could be a dress, one should be a coat for F. Though I think red would suit the pallette we're building for him.

2010-04-19T06:20:00.002+10:00

I tidied the sewing room.
It was good for me - I know have been reminded of what I've got, and little plans are forming in my mind.
I didn't throw much out, but I already knew I'm crap at that.
Hooray for tidier sewing spaces.

Haz Hat

2010-04-16T11:08:00.002+10:00

Hat crown, sewn up.

Crown with flat top attached, lining in place.

Finished product. The feather is a stunt one - I need something a little shorter and curlier. Also considering a larger gold thing.

Things to remember:
Applying the velveteen to the brim in two stages was a much better idea.
A narrow piece of felt was put in the top of the crown, around the top, to smooth out the lumps made by the flat top coming over the sides.
The pleats of the crown covering are only held in at points. The majority of the work is done by the hatband, including covering up stuff.

I'm not super-happy with it. It's come out a little rough. And I have no idea how to stick it to my head. Considering a tie, that runs around the back of my head, along the line of the coif. Or hair braids, and a staple gun.

Swearing

2010-04-15T07:47:00.002+10:00

Gosh darn it!
The plan to build two velveteen doughnuts, and sew them together, and put the buckram brim inside...looked like cak. The machined seam didn't sit right, I hadn't cut out enough of the curve, and the buckram was twisting funny...and even though I overlooked it all (because perfection is not my middle name) I got caught up with the size of the crown. It was a little too big for the brim.
Swearing, ripping, throwing...god i'm over being sick.
So last night I made two more velveteen doughnuts, ironed one onto the buckram rim (it's a little sticky, so this is cunning) and trimmed out the curve properly. Ironed the curve up and over, and stitched it down. Then cut the curve of the other layer, pinned it to the brim, and I'm most way around the edge with the tiny prick stitches.
Shesh.
I considered a line of pinked silk, sandwiched between the layers at the edge of the brim...but it would have been just too much tizz. I shall bling it up with the band.

2010-04-14T09:16:00.002+10:00

Hat is coming together rather quickly. Crown is complete, brim still needs the wire sewn on to about 3 inches. And a hole cut in the middle.
I've lined it in pale pink linen, because I had it. Though mickey mouse satin would have been awesome.
I'm at teh stage where I can test the pokey-through-ness of the buckram under the velveteen. I may yet need a layer of felt. It's not too weighty yet, so it might be a good option to add a little more weight.
Photos of steps later.

Thoughts on hat building

2010-04-13T14:32:00.003+10:00

Hat pattern worked the third time. Wish I was doing this not sick, it would be far less annoying.
Will make the block flat topped, with a circle of fashion fabric pleated into the band. This circle will smooth the flat top slightly. Not much. But easier to brain than the curve.
Two layers of this cheap buckram I've got, prolly thrown through the machine for a little extra stiffness. Lining for crown, and crown top, but velveteen on base of brim.
Thoughts on steps...
Pattern.
Cut buckram, sew together as flat things for extra strength. Sew into tube.
Cut lining, a little too long at base of crown and top. Sew into tube, place into buckram tube, cut into curve at top and secure over the top of the crown.
Pattern flat top, based on tube I've just made. Two layers of buckram, lining. Cut into the curve, fold edges down over outside of crown, hand stitch. Yes, ugly, but easy to get to, and will be covered later.
Pattern brim. Shouldn't be much more than an inch. Two layers of buckram, reinforced with machine stitching. Add wire to edge by hand. Cut velveteen, machine sew together on outer edge. Encase buckram, trim/cut curve of inner brim. fold up into crown, hand stitch brim and crown together UNDER the lining. Fold lining in and tack down. Anything unsightly can be kept under some grossgrain if necc.
Cut velveteen circle to size, with SA. Press up SA to make life easier later. Place over hat, pleat neatly into waist of hat. Tack pleats down.
Build the cutest of hat bands from beads and stuff. Stitch on so you don't lose it.
Cover it in feathers.

Only issue I can see? Buckram may still be too hard and obvious under the velveteen. Might need a layer of felt too. But I don't want to make the whole thing too heavy, so we shall see.
Wonder if I can get that rounded look with a bit of padding on the flat top? Oh my, did the caffeine just kick in? God I'm awesome. Will test this idea when I'm closer to that point.

Have I got something stupid to line it in?

May Crown - thinking aloud

2010-04-13T06:47:00.002+10:00

OPTIONS
1. Blue Brocade.
Pros: Have only worn it once, so it needs another outing. Could be cool, esp. if I borrow the rope skirt again. It's very cute, and easy to wear. I don't mind getting it dirty.
Cons: It needs some work - a band of velveteen at the hem, extra hook and eye on skirt opening, and I think I wanted to check out my sleeve holes. Bloody sleeve holes. The accessories also need making or finishing - the partlet needs a hem, I need a hat, the coif needs mending, and a belt would be ace. I'm also considering building a farthingale for it, because it did look rather good with the rope skirt.
Answer? I should try it on to solve underskirt ideas and sleeve issues.

2. Gold silk brocade.
Pros: I've only worn it once, and in Melbourne, so lots of people haven't seen it. If I wear it without the lower sleeves, it would be cooler than with them. It's gorgeous.
Cons: Lots. I've just pulled the sleeves off, to make them awesome*. I'm not prepared to get it dirty, so no wild nights for me. I think It needs to be worn over the red kirtle, and that adds to warmth, though I could test it out without. It has a shirt, and I could wear either the falling ruff partlet or the new standing one, though both need finishing. The coif needs mending, it needs a hat, and a belt. I might be overdressed.
Answer? Bloody hell, I don't know.

I guess once all these things are added together, the answer is:
I need a hat. Perf. a top hat, but a flat cap would do right now.
I need a belt. I really need some large pearls - I have the gold bits.
I need to finish both partlets.
I need to mend my coif.

The blue is wearable. The gold needs work. Finish the accessories, then finish the gold.

Gah, sensible!

*Gold sleeve plan: The sleves were originally lined in light but felty wool, and padded out with a bunch of tulle. They looked good until I wore it, and then they just looked and felt bulky and dumb. My plans is to:

Fully line the silk sleeve in heavy duty tulle, as with the dressing gown. Perhaps an extra piece in the shoulder pleats, ending at the sleeve 'point' above the shoulder.
Complete the sleeve with the original lining, to be whipped into the armhole.
Trim back the inside of the bodice armhole, and finish the edge by rolling the brocade around from the front. This may involve some thin cotton tape to seal the raw edge, if I can only fold it once around the hole.
Remove and resew the tags at the cuff, using gold thread this time, not stupid black.

I shouldn't have to cut anything new, or repattern. I think. I hope. It's ok if the sleeve becomes a little shorter in this process - it was a little long anyway.

Thoughts on Festy

2010-04-12T08:56:00.004+10:00

Best frock for wearing all day? My yellow peasant.
Why? I think because it has no sleeves, and a gap in the front. It can be as tight and loose as you want, and I think it even fits around my bust better. Also, it's very easy to wear with a neat jacket, quick to get on (and off! oo-er!), doesn't need ironing, is cool enough despite the weight of the wool, and the hem doesn't get wet.
Any issues? Yes, because it's not very flash, and I'd like something for Festy that is nice. And its hem ends above my ankle, making it a great Festy frock, but I can't wear an underskirt for extra warmth. And because it doesn't need to be kirtled, I don't end up with an apron pocket, and they are mega handy. The skirt still needs a hook and eye.

Worst frock for wearing all day? The green.
Why? The sleeves are not as comfy as I'd like. And I think the bodice gave a little in wearing - by the end of the day it was feeling a little big. And I can't wear a jacket over it, because of the awesome sleeves. So it's no good for night wear at Festy.
So, good bits? The colour still blows my mind, I love the sleeves, the skirt drape is delicious. It's going to be a fine feast frock. I'm considering trying Mel's lacing method, to make the front smoother.

So how was the salmon frock? Surprisingly comfy. I hate wearing a frock for the first time at an event - anything can go wrong. But this was ok. Not as comfy as the yellow, but still good. I could wear a jacket at night, kirtle skirts, it looked good...a success, in all. I wish I'd got some photos.

I think what I have discovered is that I (and many others) are just not good at wearing frocks for 14hr periods. We're unused to it, and it hurts. The dragging down on my shoulders, and standing differently, really takes its toll. I'm keen to see if moving my shoulder seams makes some difference, and maybe even bodices that lace differently, but I think it's just a difference thing.

So what are the plans for Festy '11?
No matter what happens with the site, it's later in the year, and therefore colder. I will be needing that coat, and so will F. So they will be re-instated. And I think the evidence points to another peasanty frock. I wonder if I have some scrappy wool for that. I'd love a new little jacket in brocade, too. And I've yet to finish my smock and F's socks. But I'm dreaming of another courty frock in black and black, and I really want to apply some new knowledge to the gold silk sleeves.

2010-03-29T06:02:00.002+11:00

Salmon frock is wearable, and pretty much done. There are two lines of cord at hem, and I'd like 3, but 2 is servicable and better than none.
Boy socks cut out, pinned in place, ready for the machine. I will finish them on site.
One partlet is mended, the other just needs hooks and eyes attached.
Must remember to pack old partlets, with pin-on ruff. Then I will have more than 2.
Still need to move the eyes on my jacket, press linens before packing,

I SHALL go to the ball!

2010-03-27T08:30:00.002+11:00

Red doublet is done.
Ties on sleeves, rings on doublet for putting the sleeves on. Two holes at base of body for lacing closed. He can have more if he wants them.
No pants attachments though. I guess we'll just see how we go!

2010-03-26T16:24:00.002+11:00

Cunning!
My teal underskirt has always been an bit too long, and I've been loathe to cut the black bands off the bottom and start again because it's too much work for right now.
So I 'pintucked' 3 bands at knee height. You'll never see them, and I've taken about 5 cm out of the length. It also adds a bit of firmness at that point, a little like a rope skirt, but not quite.
And when I've finally ruined the hem beyond repair, I can unpick the pin tucks, and chop the bottom off!
Also:
Cut the velveteen bands for Salmon sleeves
Halved the waistband of the terracotta underskirt, and bound it with cotton tape and the machine
Machined the final shirt, and I can finish this on site. Later. So don't care right now.
Packed the pile of wine bar linen, including a spare sheet for dividing the tent.
Tested the concept - Salmon frock pic has little lines of white on the hem, 3. I've got 3 lines of black cording pinned on, and I like it but need a second pair of eyes. I should be able to VERY CAREFULLY! machine this on. Done in a jiffy. And again with the adding of stiffness.

Christ, I'm fanging for a beer.

2010-03-26T06:44:00.000+11:00

Other salmon sleeve.

2010-03-25T06:17:00.001+11:00

One salmon sleeve, and the hem.

End of weekend update

2010-03-22T05:30:00.002+11:00

Dress is hanging! Skirt only took 5 episodes of Buffy - 3 for felling the seams, 2 for the pleats. One of them was the Faith switcheroo, so I'm pretty chuffed.
Flat felling with old thread is a little dumb - as it pulls on the inside of the needle, it wears and tends to break. I'm guessing it will hold up in the frock, but all that hand sewing takes longer.
I have fingers like pin cushions. Too much stabbing into my left hand.
Salmon sleeves are made. They need to be hemmed at their cuff (is it still a cuff when it's 15cm from your shoulder?), gathered at apex, and whipped into (shape) place. When there's time, they will get a little black velveteen band, but only when there's time.
Red doublet sleeves are made. They need their cuff finished, to be pleated at teh top, ties attached and I'm thinking a little button at wrist. My plan is to knife/box pleat the top, and tack cotton tape inside to hold the pleats in place.
Seeing as I'm up too early, and I've got an evening of nothing but sewing ahead of me, I may be able to complete both these items tonight. How good is that!

Packing list for me

2010-03-21T09:04:00.004+11:00

Constantly under development

Frocks:
Salmon
Green
Yellow

Shirts - 2 nice ones I know I got, and anything else I can find, and one unfinished one.
3 partlets
Teal underskirt (run a seam around at knee height on that, to make it shorter)
Terracotta underskirt
Grey jacket
Pale blue jacket
Aprons, as many as I can find. Where are they all?
Two white/red caps, and the huge red-stitched teatowel, and the milkmaid teatowel
Mundane socks and shoes.
Dressing gown.
Straw hat, dumb black hat, flat cap.

2010-03-21T08:49:00.003+11:00

Red doublet is complete, except the closures. Have no idea what I want to use. No idea. Lacing holes are sort of quick, hooks and eyes will pull funny I think. Sewing laces down would be the quickest, but I'm not sure I like the effect. More thinking.

Salmon bodice needs two more rings, and it's complete. Sleeves are put together, just need clipping and turning and pressing and hemming and putting on the bodice. Skirt MUST be on bodice, and hanging, by close of business today. This is possible, but there is also a tent to be sewn.

Still incomplete:
my final shirt, but this can be machined today and taken as hand work, even to F.
Socks for him. But again, can be worked on on Tuesday for pattern and machine, and hand projects thereafter.
Partlets need fixing, and the third one needs a ruff. This is a one evening job, and can be done this week.

2010-03-18T06:41:00.001+11:00

Salmon frock bodice has rings, velveteen banding and the waist is hemmed and cotton taped. Bones are in channels, and need testing out for optimum shapes. THEN I can finish the arm holes.

A wearing

2010-03-14T08:26:00.004+11:00

Wore the green frock last night, altogether with the stuff. I'm happy with some parts of it, and not happy with others.
The partlet is too big, so had to be pinned together at the front. The partlet was based on a previous pattern, for a previous dress, so it's not uber suprising. I may hack the front off this partlet and rehem, put ties on. I should put all my frocks on and test the partlets against them...oh so time consuming. The ruff fell nicely enough. I like the weight.
The skirt is falling nicely, lovely loops at the hem. It could have another line of black but I'm too lazy and busy. I tore the skirt opening slightly when getting dressed - this needs mending. Also, if I ever want to wear it without an apron, it needs a modesty thingy and a hook and eye.
I think I've lost weight. This was tighter on me 2 weeks ago. I mean, I thought I had lost weight, but wasn't really sure, it was only a little bit. And yet, there are gaps in the lacing. I think I can blame the thick lacing cord I used. I will swap it out.
I am totally in love with the sleeves, but I've managed it again - the armscry is too far into my front armpit. This has to be solved, and not just overlooked. Seems I'll be pulling the sleeves off, if I can. Scary, I'm not sure it's going to be possible, if there is enough extra.
I'm having trouble keeping the coif on. I'm so use to veleteen on the band! I think, rather than low pigtails, I need high ones for the band to bump up against. I might put my hair up today and try that.

The goose boy looked wonderful, even with his socks in his boots. The hat is not working for us, and I have no idea how to make it more like the pictures from this point. This band helps. That doublet is never going to get its collar, but it works without it. Just. And he appears to be comfy.

2010-03-10T06:11:00.001+11:00

Warm partlet complete. And it looks super cute on Jasper. Ha!

2010-03-07T22:00:00.002+11:00

Green frock complete!! WHOOHOO!

Doublet started, fitted. Girl shirt pieces coming together. Warm partlet being mended right now.
Time for bed!

2010-03-07T09:19:00.002+11:00

Dressing gown complete and finished and DONE!
Green hem done. Needs at least one black band, but two is preferable. It is now a wearable frock!

Plan for Sunday:

Try the doublet on him, with the extra added for collar. Cut and sew doublet, flat-lining all the way. Aim is to have this very well advanced by the close of business today.
Cut and machine on velveteen trim for green. Will cut strips on bias, and machine sew the lower edge. One of 4 inches, one of 2 inches, I think.

Of course, just for added degree of difficulty, my eyeball hurts, and I might end up in bed instead.

2010-03-04T07:02:00.001+11:00

BOY SHIRT DONE!
Green hem started.

2010-03-02T06:21:00.002+11:00

Spent most of yesterday (that wasn't waiting for doctors or in lengthy conversations with my parents) making the warm partlet. The bottom edge is a little uneven, and needs fixing, but other than that it just needs hooks and eyes.
Tonight, my job is to cut the hem of the green and start sewing. I'm just going to roll it. I feel an urgent urge to just get one of my projects finished. Also, I will take the boy shirt to Pasta and hem it.

2010-03-01T09:45:00.002+11:00

Sunday was the magical day of Sew. But I feel I didn't get much done. So here's the low down to make me feel less low-down about it.

Dressing gown had its hem found, cut, and sewn. I've just rolled the two layers up together. I figured 2 weeks of hanging aught to be enough. I took one eye off (they all have to be moved, but eyes is quicker than hooks so the eyes have it) but was over looking at red and black by then.
Green frock had its hem found, and was then unceremoniously thrown on the couch for laters. Have discovered that the boning along the front edge has popped through...I'm thinking a small patch of canvas and some glue. But arse - I hadn't even worn it yet!
His and Hers shirts had the next round of machine sewing done. Now that I think about it, I should just do all the way around my shirt...it has gores, see, and I thought to handsew up one side of the gore before the next machine job, but honestly, I love that continuous stretch of hand felling that runs from the hem, up the body, around the shoulder and back down the hem...
His shirt has two sides of the armpit gusset left to fell, then two cuffs (machined on and hand finished) and a hem. I think I'll hand do the hem, because he's likely to be a grot and leave his shirt out. But it will be big rough stitches. So there.
Salmon frock got its bodice cut out and sewn. It's ready for seam finishing and stuff. I've lined it in brown linen, and it looks lovely already. Toying with the idea of laying a line of cord along the edge of the velveteen banding. We shall see.
I've lost Fz's sock pattern. I think I might have chucked it. I've still got the leg, and I'll have to make a new one. He needs at least one more pair of socks. Might build them with a thicker sole linen. Clever.
Pinned scraps to the original doublet, to help build a pattern for the new one. He's yet to try it on.
Decided I need a warm partlet for the green frock. Either in blue brocade or black velveteen. Or perhaps reversable!! how natty! Or maybe a nice deep red wool...I've got some goodly scraps somewhere. If it takes as long as I think it will, I could have ten!

Ok, so it was a fair bit of stuff. Some of it was thinking, sure, but that's imortant too. And having company made it all that better. Sewing is a communal sport, it always has been for me. I miss having a community to do it in.

2010-02-25T06:16:00.002+11:00

Finished another partlet last night. I partlet making machine! Now I just wished I'd paid enough attention on the patterning, and ensured the collar sat tighter against my neck. Oh well, they will mostly be open anyway.
One more to go- the body is complete, just need to gather and sew the ruff, and attach to collar, and collar to body...so close!
PS startch is your friend. And I'm really worried about washing these ruffs...how do I keep their shape? I might be building a tool out of chopsticks and tape.

2010-02-22T06:24:00.002+11:00

Actually complete:
Second red ribbon coif
Smocked apron with red stripes
Can I count the partlet? It has one eye left to go on.

The jacket has all its hooks and eyes, but I think I might be moving the eyes a little closer to the opening. It's a bit too close.

Why does the to-do list still seem so big?

For A

2010-02-18T06:27:00.000+11:00

2010-02-16T06:16:00.002+11:00

Gown now has sleeves, and needs about 30 minutes spent on the front seam. And of course, a hem, but that comes after hanging. I slipped it on - there's a bit of pull across the top chest that I wasn't expecting, making the sleeves a little uncomfy. I hope it all settles out of it after a bit of hanging, and wearing.

2010-02-15T06:31:00.001+11:00

Didn't complete sleeves. Had a day of ant-vacuuming and guests.
Still need to finish putting cuff on one sleeve, and sew them both to the body.

2010-02-14T09:12:00.003+11:00

Dressing gown is progressing nicely. Hand finishing seams in a floor-length thing takes for ever. Whole thing will need to hang for a few days for maximum droppage. Contemplating velveteen trim on hem...but that equals more work. So maybe not.
Today will be a day of sleeve building. It would be awesome to have the whole thing on a hanger in the bathroom by the end of the day.

2010-02-11T06:12:00.002+11:00

I forget, when I start a new project, that I've now got good habits. And good sewing habits take more time. It's nearly impossible to just 'whip something up'.
I had a vision of machining the dressing gown together last night, that I'd be felling seams in no time.
Instead, I spent the night basting my inner and outer layers together.
It's a good plan, and a good habit. But I'm only half way there.
The plan is to pin the layers together and test the pattern one last time. I made the pattern in the lining linen, but it's light and only gave me a vague indication of the shapes I'd need. The red is nice and stiff.
I'd like it snug in the body, but I'm worried that it will wrinkle. Will I need canvas too? I guess the way to avoid canvas is to have it not too snug. I love the way the blue silk gown I have clings to my back waist...I'm thinking that, but have to tell myself that I may not achieve it.
The pattern, for the record, is taken from the navy jacket for the collar. The front panel rests on the selvedge (straight line) but the back panels are flared on both sides of the skirt. Will have to test the angle of this in the red too.
C has tulle lying around, so I'm saved from Lincrap. I hope to do mucho work on this tonight...while making chutney and perhaps having a nap.

Coat plans and blah blah

2010-02-10T06:26:00.002+11:00

Like this. Without the frockage underneath. Or a hat - blow that.
Bought the red linen, will line the coat to the knees in black linen twill I've got lying around the house. Though if there's enough, i could line to hem. Twill falls differently, and I'l really need to brain the stretch issues. Flat line, don't forget to hem the lining before you put the pieces together if it's going ot be shorter. Test out the groovy sleeve theory - finish arm holes and sleeve heads first, then whip together. Sleeve will need a layer of tulle for oomph.
Hooks and eyes from bust to knee...or thigh. Or maybe bows...or does that make it too 'bethan? I've got grossgrain out the wazoo, in a pretty good colour...Perhaps some canvas in the body...but the more I do to it, the more it becomes a dress not a gown. Will decide during patterning stages.

I wonder...if I made it more frock-like, could I stick a fancy shirt on, and a hoop skirt, and pretend I was dressed? I'm not sure I care enough. All I really want is a dressing gown, so I'm not nude while drinking coffee. One that no one else has!! bwahaha.
Hm. Think that cements it. No canvas. Can get a good enough fit without it. Nice heavy linen!

2010-02-09T07:37:00.003+11:00

Thinking...
I might not need a big heavy coat for G'worth Valley, but I will need a 'dressing gown' for getting my coffee in the morning and sitting around camp like a slug...Thinking good heavy linen, knee-length, but no idea of sleeves or closures yet.

...

Ooooo! Huge puff balls! High collar, somewhat fitted in body, hooks and eyes! So totally made up, but it will be beautiful!
YES!
Might have to head back to the heavy red linen shop.

Frock plans - thinking out loud

2010-01-31T08:22:00.009+11:00

Salmon wool. Lots of it.
Want simple for Festy, but along the lines of the green - middle-ish class, dressy but serviceable.
Do I want big puff-balls for sleeves? Maybe.
Or do I want to make a sexy coat to go with this, and play with a theory...
The girls recorded in this manuscript, I reckon, are in many cases wearing a 'kirtle' (for want of a better word) like the lower classes are showing. Probably with no sleeves, possibly with a small sleeve.Then, they get to wear a nice high-necked jacket, with the big puff-ball sleeves. So many of the outfits have 'tops' that don't match bottoms. And aprons that match the tops.
So, the good news about this theory is that I can lace up the front with impunity, have a simple 'kirtle' frock, and a really sexy jacket. The sad news is that it's often not cold enough at Festy for a coat. I'm going to scratch the big coat of doom off my Festy list, in fact. Now, I do already have 3 little jackets - two I would happily wear with this middle class stuff. So do I need more? I think I do. I think I need a brocade one.
Ok. Simple salmon 'kirtle'. Front lacing. Short sleeves, very short in fact - the whole thing along these design lines but with front lacing. So now do I get to plan a jacket? I might do a little more research, but it will probably be high-necked, big shouldered, stop a the waist line, hooks and eyes, blue brocade.

Also have been considering Fz's doublet. Not sure that I like it. Might make him a second one, with a higher neckline, pickadills at the shoulders (the little folded under ones, like loops) and baggy sleeves for tying in. Like this guy. He looks so comfy. IN brown wool, but lined with something bright...wonder how much green I have left?

2010-01-31T07:55:00.002+11:00

Skirt's on bodice. Looking good. Hanging for a few days - so much bias in there, needs a good hang.
Found boy shirt, started to do more machining prep, getting it ready for easy hand sewing...only I hadn't finished all the previous handsewing. Back into hand basket.
Started the silk ribbon coif. Tacked down at the meeting point, 2cm space between. Will not put beads on it - too tizzy and naff. Only lined in another layer of linen. Should be floppy. Lattice looks great.
Have a piece of smocking from C - should be able to halve it and get two new aprons. Will start that today.
Finished a partlet! Actually, needs two sets of ties on the front, and then it's done. But when I finish a thing, I can start a new one! Hence the hat. I'm happy with the concept of whipping the collar on. Works nicely, neatly. The whole think looks beautiful. Weee!

2010-01-28T06:23:00.002+11:00

Achieved socks! Yeah, well, that was easy.
Have finished ruff collar, in process of whipping it onto the partlet. Sleeve holes to do on that one, and ties, and it's complete. Although...think I need to cut the arm open, to get it over the ginor-mouse sleeves.

2010-01-27T06:20:00.002+11:00

Socks nearly done. So fast! Machining is the way to go - and I can machine the whole thing, and still keep the hand finishing neat, rather than having to hand finishing certain seams before machining any more. Wizz! One top cuff left to do. They look great, even if they are very fine linen. He will be cool and comfy.
Flannel sewn and pressed into waist of green skirt. Pleating soon.
School is back today, so let's see if I give this all away again. Sewing lost to Teh Tired and school work after midwinter, mostly because I found the stress of building the gold frock to be too much. It wasn't fun, so I didn't want to keep on doing it. This time 'round, I'm enjoying myself, and have a 2 month goal/work period. I think there will be more sewing.

2010-01-26T09:16:00.002+11:00

Bought cotton/linen from Greenfields for boy socks. It's a little more delicate than I'd like for him, but he will have some very sexy legs, and be very comfy. And I bought too much, so hello extra smock for me.
One sock is nearly complete - top hem left to do. Other comes to BBQ with me.
Partlets are coming along slowly - the inbetween projects project. I've hemmed the neck on one, and will whip the collar into place when it's complete. Might take that to BBQ too, and see what I can do. Have pinned and sewn one ruff.
Interior skirt seams are finished. Will line waist with thin wool, if I cna find some...hang on, there's some cheap flannel in the boxes somewhere, that could work. Soft, but full.
Bought 4 packets of fishing rings online yesterday. No idea how much the shipping was. Have Dad and Em on the hunt in shops for me too, getting the best prices.
Considering turning the new salmon wool into a small-sleeved frock. Simple. Round-fronted perhaps, black trim with an extra thin line of trim next to it...maybe. Planning to happen.

2010-01-25T10:11:00.001+11:00

These are a little bit funky. Shame you have to buy 50,000 of them to get 30 for a frock though.

New wool colour

2010-01-23T10:15:00.001+11:00

Only took three different kinds of dye - onions included - to move from the beige to this. Bah. Never buying Dylon again - it sucks.

Sleeves on bodice

2010-01-22T11:22:00.002+11:00

Bodice is almost a finished thing - 2 more rings and finished arm holes and I'm good for skirting. No, my bodice doesn't fit this dummy. Clickly little pics for bigger pics.
Yes, I'm disgustingly proud of myself. No, I don't think I'll look like Snow White hiding in a pine forest.
I'd like to get the skirt cut today. How will I finish the inner seams? By hand is dumb - this is a quick and easy frock, not a taking forever frock. Then again, I could do the folded-over flat-felled thing - one line of hand sewing per machine seam. Hmm. French seams on the brocade didn't come out as neatly as I'd have liked, and the bulk in the waist seam/pleats was a bit much. Hand done it is.
Oh yeah...and the sleeves are so big, I'll have to cut my new partlets under the arm and tie them on. HA!

Building sleeves

2010-01-20T20:39:00.005+11:00

The sleeve lining, with dags sewn on. Dags are backed in more green linen.

Outer 'puff' added at half-sleeve point. Box pleated for less bulk. Machine sewn down - velveteen band will cover the rough edges and the join.

Scary monster sleeve mouth! Argh!

Inside the outer 'puff'. Iron-on interfacing or moderate stiffness, and 'horse-hair' braid made of the purest plastic. Tacked very gingerly into place as there's nothing to hide the stitches on the outside.
The whole thing is looking rather spiffing, I must say. At this point I've got the panes cut out, and some are sewn and pressed, and the upper pleats are sewn in at the sleevehead. I'm a little worried at how careful I will have to be, sewing the whole sleeve to the bodice and keeping the pleats flat and pretty. And must remember to put the rest of the boning in BEFORE sewing the sleeves on!
This whole adventure took me most of today. And it's not over yet. Phew!

2010-01-20T08:38:00.000+11:00

Note to self - front bonings are win.

2010-01-19T09:22:00.002+11:00

Three partlets cut and machined. One almost all felled, another halfway through.
Bodice together and felled. Choice was velveteen. Cut and place today. Sleeve patterning? Perhaps.
Boy shirt pinned and ready to be tried on. Can't progress until sure it works. Waiting, waiting...
Think my new coif is a little too big in band. Will need to address this later.

2010-01-17T22:17:00.002+11:00

Coif works well. For the next one, I'll put only interfacing in it, no voile. One finished item!
Also finished off the early period shirt. Tudor neckline on it, hemmed and cuffed. Two finished items!
Broken partlet has been unpicked for pattern pieces. I'll cut a new, higher neck tomorrow.

Monday's goal is:
Cut bodice pieces for green frock.
Make a choice on trim for green frock - black wool, black linen or black velveteen?
Cut a new partlet, making sure the neck is high enough.
Machine sew boy shirt sleeves on, ready for hand work.
Stick all hand work in the tidy handwork basket, ready for TV sewing opportunities! Woot!

2010-01-17T09:25:00.002+11:00

I'm having a hat win!
I've decided to put the grossgrain straight down on the white linen, 3cm apart (that's twice the ribbon's width) and using backstitch. I did 7 last night while watching TV, and have a tiny bit left to do before I start on the other angle. It's not that annoying or time concuming...although I spose I did watch close to 2 hours worth of Gormet farmer and Torchwood.
It's lined with voile, but I found that it was all too stretchy still, so I ironed some light interfacing on it too. We'll see how that works out when I start to pleat it in.
I now own some thinner red ribbon in silk, and I'm yet to test the pinchy theory. Again, if it just isn't working, I'll still have some tasty red ribbon to put on coifs. And aprons.
Starting to wich I'd picked a linen scrap that can be ironed flat - this linen is dumb. I've never been able to get it smooth. Oh well, too late now.

2010-01-15T14:35:00.003+11:00

I've had a partlet fail.
I've cut the neck hole a little too big. It means the collar won't sit against my neck nicely.
It was the last of that linen too, cut so carefully to make the most of it. And I've saved all the selvedge of that linen too, for ruffs, and and there's no more left to make partlets with...
I could just finish it anyway, but it's an open partlet always. Or I could abandon it. Feeling a bit pouty about it all.
Might go and do something different for a while.

Yesterday, I started...

2010-01-15T09:20:00.002+11:00

A new partlet for me, which will have an added collar and ruff. It's one layer of linen, and at this point I've felled all the inner seams, and hemmed the bottom and arms. Still need to starch the ruff strip and pleat it in. The collar will be 2 layers, to hide the bottom of the ruff. Outer layer of collar will be machined on, inner layer hand done. Might use ribbons to tie it on, as it's a snug fit and will stretch. Ties might make it less susceptible to stretch. I need to make a few of these.
A boy shirt. Pieces cut out. I've take a little out of the body, but added more in the underarm gussets and neck pieces. The back neck is a very small curve, and the front is average. So far, the gussets have been added to body and sleeves, and the neck slit has been finished. Instead of a spider web, I've put two buttonhole stitch bars across, a bit like a ladder. Looks cute.
Fixing the early period shirt I was making, to make it more tudor. The neckline's been recut, the sleeves shortened, and the side seam machined. It needs felling in the side seam, neck/cuff/hem hemmed. The sleeves are a little big at the upper arm, but it will suffice as an extra festy shirt.
Steaming a boy hat. It was almost sodden, and I put it in the oven over an IKEA pot. It shrunk a little, which is good, and I got a good round shape out of it. It's had its sides trimmed, the back turned up. He can now play with it as he sees fit. It needs a feather, I think.
Making grossgrain ribbon into little puckers. I'm not convinced that this will work as coif trim...it is a little bulky at the crossover points. There's not much space at the back of your head there, and I'd hate it to be all just too bulky. I'll do a few more, and get the linen ready for a test. It could work. Or I might need a thinner ribbon. This stuff's 1.5cm. Thinner could be great.

Making a coif

2010-01-14T20:47:00.004+11:00

So, for the big gold frock I wanted a coif like these. I tried to get the latticed effect with two strand of gold, and it looked good, but wasn't quite what I was expecting.
So I thought this time I might put all that grossgrain ribbon to work. I'm pulling the edges together every 5 cm, and I'll lay them lattice-style and see what happens.

I'm not convinced by it yet, guess I won't know until I've done enough to make some lattice. I'm worried it will be a bit bulky. Perhaps it would best be done with a thinner ribbon. Perhaps I need another visit to Greenfields...?

Shirt issues

2010-01-14T10:22:00.002+11:00

So, when he put his new tasty foofy shirt on, it sat real funny over his shoulders. Looked well wrong. And I couldn't figure out why. But a read over Renn Tailor's shirt making page makes me wonder - How low did I cut the neck in the back panel? this could be the issue. I don't remember, though I'm not use to cutting out HEAPS, but perhaps I cut out enough to make it strangle him a bit.
So the plan today is to cut a new shirt, this time taking VERY LITTLE from the back of the neck, and a fir bit from the front. I'm also thinking I'll knife pleat the shirt into the neck band, to try and alleviate the hunchback look.

Finshed frocks, world of win

2010-01-10T13:20:00.004+11:00

Arty ruff. I liked the coloured pins.
BROCADE:
Not too fond of the slight point in the bodice, possibly emphasised by the gap, possible facilitated by the slippery lacing cord. Was quite comfy everywhere but the armscry, and that might be fixable. Will have to unpick the binding I've put on the seams there, and try to minimise the bulk even further. Love the silhouette from the back!
Things that were unfinshed:
Partlet needs another button and loop, a hem and ties to go under the arms.
Chemise needs cuff closures.
Armscry needs attention.
Hook and eye on skirt needs to be moved, or perhaps an extra one added. Top one. Placket needs hemming.
Need to build a top hat and sleeves to fully complete it.

GOOSE BOY:
He was surprisingly comfy and didn't die of heat! This is very good news. Then again, festy is far more humid. He didn't make it to the doublet, sadly.
I'm not sure what I've done wrong with the shirt...it fits funny. He needs another, and I will have to figure out what I'm doing wrong, or odd, for the next one.
The pants were great. I think they need another button, just for the look of the thing. The hat was too small - still need to deal with the blue hat...starting with dyeing it a better colour.
M has offered to build socks, which is great. The whole outfit will be improved by them. His shoes work well.
The best bit was when H recognised the outfit as goose boy! Win!
Still need to:
Make points for doublet / pants.
Organise sock building.
Hat.
Overcoat. Not that I think he will ever need it...

Partlet joy

2010-01-06T06:51:00.003+11:00

I'm knife pleating into the neck band, and it's so cute and neat and falls so well! And I plan to pleat the bottom edge too - to keep it neat under the frock. Looks like a real one!
Shirt just needs cuffs and ruffs. Today's goals!

Update

2010-01-05T10:56:00.003+11:00

Brocade frock skirt and bodice have been introduced. Now hanging in bathroom, before C and I have a huge hemming party.
Doublet skirts are on. Taking much longer than I thought. Will need season 1 of Angel, I think.
Making large-sleeved chemise. Tasty swiss voile, french seamed all the way. Very thread-hungry work. Will need trip to KMart for more white thread. Hope whole thing will be done by tonight. Considering a little bit of lace at neck...not that anyone will see it. That way, I can machine the whole thing!
If I can get good time on the partlet today, I will consider a stoopid top hat. But only if there is time. Doublet, partlet and pants must be complete. Hat is extra.

Back on track

2010-01-02T06:31:00.003+11:00

Sewing machine fixed!

Finished all the hand work on brocade bodice (although I haven't prick stitched the velveteen down around the neck...and might not. We'll see).

Two buttonholes on Doom pants. I suck at buttonholes. But all is made better when you see him put them on, and they look fab. Weee!

Doublet started - light beigy coloured wool, lined with terracotta cotton for a great colour match, and IKEA cotton for a bit more stability. I've bag lined the 4 body panels, and plan to finish off all edges, then whip stitch the skirt pieces and shoulder caps on. I'm hoping this makes them stick out in a cool way. The doublet will have little triangle shoulder caps but no sleeves, and small...say 2 inch skirt pieces...prolly only two, with a break at the back. Need to research this. Just in case. Although, I'm making a heap of stuff up with this, as all the groovy german boys are wearing jackets over their doublets, and making it hard for me.

Also - when bag lining, the way to get the outer fabric to 'overhang' the lining when all pressed? Seems to be best if you trim the seam allowance very close on the lining fabric before turning - not the outer fabric, which would make some sense, as it's thick and stuff. Am I wrong? I made the shoulder caps, and trimmed the SA differently on them, and one worked a little better...?

asplode

2010-01-01T08:56:00.002+11:00

Sewing machine fizzled yesterday. My enthusiasm has been violently squished...so frustrated.

Kept doing bodice hand sewing last night, and made 2 button holes on Doom Pants. But I was most of the way around my skirt, french seaming all the way, when the machine died. Feel so unfulfilled.

Started making a dress yesterday too - IKEA fabric, 60s mod-style. Can't finish it now. Pants.

Update

2009-12-31T07:28:00.002+11:00

Did very little yesterday. There was shopping, and I found many cheap gold things to help to build a belt. Which is good. Must get to $2 shop and buy HUGE beads to complete it.
Cut out the skirt pieces - four trapezoids in 3 sizes. Plan is to french seam them, to save time and bloody stupidity. Brocade is very fray-y, and needs to be finished. What to line skirt waist in, to get good pleats? Hmm.
Still to do on the bodice: lacing rings (changed my mind again), prick stitching velvet trim, cotton tape over sleeve seams.
Pants of doom need button loops on legs, buttons and button holes on fly. I seem to have lost a button. Pants.

Update

2009-12-29T18:25:00.001+11:00

Tuesday saw a sleep in, then two tries at the little velveteen pickadils. The first ones were just al wrong. Now they are sexy! But all so very time consuming.
There's lots of fiddly bits to be done inside the bodice now. And I'm planning on hooks and eyes, not lacing. Am I mad? Dunno.

Update

2009-12-28T08:42:00.002+11:00

I've actually been sewing!
1. There's velveteen trim around the neckline of the blue brocade bodice, and it's nearly all hand sewn down. I hope to pattern the sleeves today, and get them in, to seal all the edges of the bodice. The brocade frays terribly, and I'd like to get it all finished before I walk away from it to make the skirt.
The prick stitching along the edge of the velveteen is working very nicely. it builds a line very similar to the white detail in the image. Considered doing it in white, but figured it would look dumb.
I've done something funky - well, I think it's funky, because it's new to me. Boning channels along under my boobs, like normal. But two, to help the bodice keep its shape. And then another channel up the front opening, hopefully to help the curve over the bust. The front opening is not straight, so the boning has to curve...I won't really know it it will work until the lacing is in, and if it doesn't work, all I've done is put a line of reinforcing stitches in the front.
THOUGHT! French seam the skirt pieces, and save yourself some time and pain.
2. Boy's brown pants have come out of their 'work in progress' basket, and I've put the cuffs on the bottom. Three of seven buttons have been made, but it's tuff on the knuckles so I'll be a little slow there. The plan is to make button holes for the main opening, a la How Green Is My Cactus, but I think I'll need little loops for the knee cuff buttons. I don't think there's enough in the measurement to get that little bit further around his calves. I'm reconsidering my lining concept - I just don't think I can be arsed.
3. I've made an early period shirt, mostly, and thought to cut the neck out in a more 16thC way. That nobody would know. But I've had a look at it, and the sleeves on it are quite big in the arm, as there's no armpit gores, and I wonder if it will look funny/too big with a sleeveless or shortsleeved frock. Which is how I'd like to wear it. Can I be arsed unpicking all the hand sewing I've done to it, to make it more appropriate? Maybe I should finish it and wear it as bed clothes. Or just never wear it with the wrong frock.

I'm finding that because I've spent 6 months thinking about sewing stuff, the actual sewing is rather brainless. When a small job on a garment is finished, I just pick up the next thing and keep going. Which is good, because the last time I did a major sewing thing, I had to think so hard about it all. So perhaps I haven't lost it!

Things I still need to make/organise for the blue brocade to be a wearable 12th Night frock:
Beady belt? Perhaps.
Undersleeves. Detatch. so I can cool down.
New shirt - let's make a fun pleaty one. With nice big sleeves, and tight little cuffs with cute bands, and a pearl button closure, and little delicate ruffs. Should have enough swiss voile for that. Or should it be a partlet and a shirt with cool sleeves? Oh, this is the bit that confuses me!
I have the coif, should I make a flat cap and give Smash hers back? Well, yes. Line with something stupid and sexy - orange and red stripes?

Green linen - planning out loud

2009-12-26T13:04:00.003+11:00

I've got this hawt green linen, and want to make a kirtle out of it.
Braining points - I've not been happy about making frocks outta linen, as there's perfectly good fine wool out there that will do it, but I can get my head around a kirtle. It has to be Festy-proof, so cleanable and sleeve-removable. Or at least roll-upable.So far, she's my favourite. I'm thinking front-lacing, sleeves of ball-proportions and made in strips, addable lover sleeves in same linen, and at least 2 bands at the hem. Black linen to trim in? Still holding out on that one. Black velveteen is a bit too heavy in weight and colour, and I'd feel like a newbie.
Of course, the joy of this dress is the sleeves, and then I get to add a cute brocade jacket over it.

This lassy, and the following, are my sort of next choices. Simplicity in the last one, so it would be alright with the linen. But I think I need to break out the navy blue brocade for the top one. Could I manage it before 12th night? Highly possible. Is it a festy frock? Could very well be! Skirt will need big amounts...and those sleeves will be greedy too. Have the hats. Want to make another sheer partlet too. And screw that neckline...what is that? Servicable, please!

I think I might go and tie myself to the sewing machine.

2009-08-25T07:09:00.002+10:00

So school went back, and I haven't done a stitch.
But I tried to sleep last night, dreaming of lining these pants to prevent itch. I did sleep, eventually, but I also decided how to line them, and what with.
If I'm a good girl, and do all my marking, I might be allowed to stitch something.

Pants saga, day 3

2009-07-25T15:27:00.005+10:00

The pants, while majestic, really were too big.
Yesterday, I unpicked all my pleats, and cut some fabric out, and put them back together.
I had some fun with Geraldine, turning her into Gerald. I had hoped to stick pins in her, not fz, but the crotch of the pants was too hig, and the base of the dummy too low...So I had to set the waist a little lower than is normal. But I got a good idea of what I needed to remove. The left leg is the one full of pins.
I ended up taking 40cm out of each leg. The white line is where I cut. So last night was spent running gathering stitches. I can now have my pleats meet at the fly, add a flyflap, and hopefully bob's someone's uncle.
I'm glad we tried them on. He decided that the waistband could be 15 cm tighter, too. I based that on the last pants...gawd, you know, it's so much easier to make stuff for me. At least I'm always there to try it on.

Pants Saga: The beginning

2009-07-23T14:50:00.008+10:00

After Festy '09, I decided that my boy needed to look more dapper. And he'd look great in some late period German stuff. Or maybe I'm just blind to any other culture.
I wanted him to look like this:
In varying degrees, of course. A bit from here, a bit from there. I'm in love with the fisherman's jacket, with all those pleats. It might be my first foray into leather sewing.
I'm also in love with the pants the boys wear in How Green is my Cactus.Even though I know they're outta period. A button fly! Too cute.
St Janet has examples of much higher-class duds, with pinking and other exciting decoration, often shorter and poofier, and sometimes with pockets! I'm not keen to pad them - He gets hot enough as it is, withough wearing pink bats on his legs - and I'm not trying to make anything high class. It's fisherman's pants for him! I'm also planning to use quite rough, heavy wool, which should have enough oomph in it to get the look right.
Climate + materials x period look = a useful costume.
My first attempt was a rushjob. They're cute pants, in grey wool. They are box pleated into the waistband and cuffs. They fit, and work, but they just aren't very big. I've built them a codpiece...need to figure out the best way to put that on...He can wear them, if he wants, but he's not allowed to say who made them.

Mark II is much better. I cut them out yesterday, and I really wish there was a size indicator in this pic. It would be much funnier then:
As a hint, the waist line at the top of the pattern is 92cm. Times that by 4. And the pattern is skewiff because I was standing at one end...
The wool is quite heavy, part of the Great Fantasy Fabric Haul, and almost polar fleece in feel. It has a fair bit of stiffness, and when pleated should stand out nicely.
I've decided to cartridge pleat the waist and cuffs in. Why? beacuse St Janet's pics show even, rounded pleats, and I know it will give me the same effect. I'm pleating straight to the waistband. The waistband is already finished, lined in linen (I had some spare) and prickstitched at the top.The pleating pinned in. I really like the colour of this wool, and it goes with just about anything. Which is good - I have no idea what to make the rest of his outfit from.The pleats from the outside. I'm not quite half-way round yet, so there's still a gathering stitch in there. And you can see the prick stitching - I really do like the look of a bit of prick stitching. And it's not just because of the name.
I had decided to give them a button fly - because buttons are easy to make, as are holes; they're easy enough to get in and out of; no codpiece to brain, or wear, or avoid in the dark, or make lewd jokes about...but I might be changing my mind. As I start the pleating, I left 3cm either side of the fly, to prevent pleats from encroaching on the buttons.
But.
Let's say I hook and eye the fly closed. If the pleats abutt the fly, then they help to cover the gap. And if there's a flap, as per garment 12 in POF, then all accidents are accounted for (then again, garment 12's eyelet holes do suggest a missing codpiece...yup, "The codpiece has been discarded and the front opening fastns with points through worked eyelet holes, backed with a large velvet flap. The opening is almost completley hidden by folds of material." I suppose the question is: who discarded the codpiece?
Choices, choices...Ok. Flat hooks. No codpiece. Flap. Means either jigging the flat pieces I've left behind, or unpicking the pleats I've already done...there's a lot of double work happening on these pants. I really do need to learn to be a bit slower with my decision making.

My Festy '10 Dream List

2009-07-23T14:35:00.002+10:00

For me:

3 more late smocks (there's an early shirt, halfmade...cut the neck lower...hm...)
A few more partlets, with ruffs attached I think. I'll leave this vague, and fix it up later.
At least one more kirtle - front-lacing, no sleeves, big skirts.
A long over-jacket with huge sleeves.
A better way to deal with my hair - a hat solution or two.

For him:

At least 2 late shirts (one is in construction)
Brown pants (in construction)
a doublet, no sleeves or removable sleeves.
A jacket to go over this.
A dumb hat.

This list is subject to change without notice!

Pants Saga 1

2009-07-22T16:18:00.003+10:00

I made Fz a pair of grey pants a few weeks back. And a codpiece to go with. But I just dodn't feel they were big enough. So today I thought I'd build some huge ones.

I cut them out (based on the original's J-shape in the crotch, plus manymanylots).
I sewed each leg, then put them together.
Pressed everything.
made the cutest little waistband, lined in linen.
Pressed over the waist edge, ready to pleat.
Did my maths, and ran cartridge pleating stitches through.
Pinned the waist band on, just to see if they truly are big enough. Or too bloody big.
Flipped them right way out, to have a better look at them.
Discovered yellow texta on his right butt cheek.
Washed, scrubbed, took dremmel to it, and nothing is getting it off.
Now I'm re-pressing the waist down, having unpicked and unironed the whole blooming thing.
Oh, the happy.

I mean, I'm using KT's tasty machine - the actual stitching doesn't hassle me at all. It's the ironing that's slowing it all down.

Which brings me to:
A NOTE ON IRONING
Steam irons are your friend. They totally roxor, especially after you've taken your glasses off (I can't sew with my shoe on, or steam iron with my glasses on).
But the best pressing you can ever do, particularly on wool, is with a lump of wood to hand. It 'shocks' the wool, cools it quicker, therefore making a nicer crease...and that's why this is taking me so blooming long! Steam, press, wait. Steam, press, wait. Oh well, at least I get to go wahwah about it here while I wait.

The good news, I suppose (she says in her pessemistic fug) is that the size of the pants seems to be ok. I'm still wondering about lining them...but once they're pleated, I don't really have a choice about that. I think the wool is thick enough to do what it needs to, and I don't like the idea of overheating my 'radiator' any more than I have to.

Learning expreience? Check your fabric, fully, BEFORE you hack it up and sew it down!

I'm a looooooooser

2009-07-17T13:39:00.000+10:00

What's this, blog number 5? 6?
I want to have somewhere to document the steps I take to make a frock, that isn't my wahwah blog. Hopefully, it will mean that I:
a) Will stop and consider WHY I do what I do, and therefore, perhaps, force me to make some actually period choices.
b) Will have a record of what I do. I'm finding that after my break from costuming, I've forgotten some pretty basic stuff.
c) Maybe, at some point, will share it with intrested parties. Not like this is hard to find or anything, though...

And to start, here's a list of UFOs in the work pile at the moment:

Fz's late period shirt. It's mostly done. It needs a hem, and the collar and cuffs gathered and put into bands. It's made very simply, with small gores at the neck (I'd never done this before), and a tiny reinforced spider web at the neck opening. It's to go with baggy 1580s German pants and jackets. These are yet to be made.

The armholes on my recent partlet. I wore it at Midwinter unfinished. It's the work of 30 minutes. The partlet pattern was based on one I'd made earlier. I can't remember why I chose this shape and stuff...that's why I have this blog! It's cotton voile, and the ruff is attached. I chose to pleat the ruff not into triple Vs, as on Renn Tailor, but only doubles. I wanted to reduce bulk in the partlet collar, and make something delicate.

There's also some mending/fixing/doing that has to happen to the new gold frock. The sleeves need tweaking, the 'dills need redoing, again. The skirt is a little too short - I'd like to unhem it, add a bias strip and see if that gives me more hem. My other option is to bind the whole edge.

Coming soon - The Festy List.